Blue Star Endlers (Poecilia wingei)
Blue Star Endlers are hardy, adaptable, and peaceful and their small size makes them perfect for the nano or planted aquarium. These Endlers will get on fine with most fish in a community aquarium; however, you should avoid keeping them with larger, more aggressive fish as they will nip at their tails, possibly see them as a snack and will outcompete them for food.
Blue Star Endlers typically occupy the top level of an aquarium; however, you will often find them swimming in the middle and bottom levels when foraging for food or chasing females for courting. It would be best to keep these fish in larger groups as the aquarium will look more natural, and the fish will display their natural behaviours.
Blue Star Endlers are known to jump, so it is advisable that you keep a tight-fitting lid on the aquarium or at least a significantly lowered water level. These fish will not eat or bother plants.
These fish have beautiful colouration; their bodies are an electric blue colour that fades into a lighter blue. In addition, these Endlers have a distinct black horizontal line as well as a dark blue horizontal line displayed on their body. These fish also possess a bright orangey-red colouration on their chest area and on their caudal fin.
Blue Star Endlers (Poecilia wingei) Video
|Scientific Name||Poecilia wingei|
|Other Names||Campoma Blue Star|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Best kept as||Groups 5+|
|Lifespan||2 - 3 years|
|PH||7.0 - 8.5|
|GH||2 - 15|
|KH||15 - 3|
|TDS||50 - 150|
|75 - 86℉|
23.9 - 30℃
In the home aquarium, the Blue Star Endlers will readily accept most good quality dried foods such as granules, flakes and sinking pellets. These modern food products have been developed to provide all adequate nutrition to maintain your fish's health and dietary requirements.
Providing additional foodstuffs such as live, frozen, and freeze-dried meals such as bloodworm, daphnia, and tubifex once or twice a week will provide additional benefits to your fish's health and well-being but is not a must for this fish.
It should be noted that bloodworms should only be given as an occasional treat and should not be used as the staple diet as they are difficult for fish to digest and can potentially cause blockages.
This fish is an omnivore in the wild, meaning it will consume some vegetable matter. Although most modern fish foods take this into account and include them in their products, you can still supplement your fish's diet with blanched vegetables such as spinach, broccoli, and zucchini. Ensure you do not overfeed your fish and remove any leftovers the following day.
Endlers are the easiest livebearers to breed as they do not predate on their fry anywhere near the level of other livebearers. Though when the colony gets going with more mouths to feed, the yield of try will lessen, and the colony will balance itself out. From our experience in keeping and breeding endlers, it seems the first batch of fry is most likely to be predated on, and once the adults are used to seeing fry around, they tend to leave subsequent fry drops alone.
Female Endlers will drop fry every 26-30 days depending on temperature; higher temperatures will shorten the gestation period. Females can start dropping fry from 2-3 months of age, although the smaller and younger the fish, the less fry they will drop. Some first drops can produce as little as 2-3 fry, and mature adult females can typically produce 30-50 fry.
If you wish to maximise the survival rate of your Blue Star Endlers fry, we recommend adding Guppy Grass to the aquarium. Guppy grass is a fast-growing and straightforward plant that provides a lot of coverage for the fry, which are most vulnerable for the first hour after being born before becoming free swimming. You can also use a cheap floating breeding Hatchery if you want to be sure no fry are lost but be prepared to be constantly diving into your aquarium to net out new fry every month.
In summary, the bigger question isn't how to breed endlers, but how do you *not breed* endlers :).