Silvertip Tetra (Hasemania nana) Species Profile & Care Guide
Silvertip Tetras are hardy, good looking and active shoaling fish that does well in a community aquarium. However, they are slightly more aggressive than other comparable smaller tetras, occasionally nipping fins of other similarly sized tetras. They can adapt to a wide range of water parameters, making them ideal for beginner aquarists.
The body of Silvertip Tetra is transparent except for the fact that their bodies have an overall gold to a copper sheen. During the night, the copper and black colours become silver as the fish rests. The colour then returns once the fish becomes active in the morning.
You can see a little bit of silver pattern beside the eyes. Silvertip Tetras display a black stripe that goes from the middle of the body to the end of the tail fins. The dorsal fin has a golden-yellowish colour with a bit of silvery-white on the tip. The anal fin has quite a similar colour to the dorsal fin. They differ from most other Tetras as they lack a small adipose fin.
|Scientific Name||Hasemania nana|
|Other Names||Tipped Tetra, Copper Tetra|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||5 - 8 years|
|Temperature||71 - 82 ℉ (21.7 - 27.8 ℃)|
|PH||6.0 - 8.0|
|GH||5 - 20|
Natural Habitat of the Silvertip Tetra
Silvertip Tetras are native to the Sao Francisco river basin in Brazil in South America. They inhabit slow-moving water in creeks, small tributaries and streams away from the main river channels. You can find them in both black and white water environments with an abundance of vegetation for shelter, breeding and food.
Other Tetras of interest
The Silvertip Tetra is relatively easy to feed. These fish will readily accept anything offered. For the best colours and conditions, offer them regular meals of small frozen and live foods such as daphnia, bloodworm and brine shrimp, and high-quality dried flakes and granules.
Breeding the Silvertip Tetra
The Silvertip Tetra is quite easily bred, which is reflected in their low price in the aquarium trade. You will need to set up a separate breeding tank if you would like to increase the yield of fry.
The tank should be dimly lit and contain clusters of fine-leaved plants such as java moss. Spawning mops are also suitable. This will give the fish somewhere to deposit their sticky eggs. You could also cover the bottom of the tank with some mesh. This mesh should be a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it but small enough so that the parents cannot reach them.
These Tetras can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen individuals of each sex being ideal. Condition them with plenty of live and frozen foods, and spawning should not bestow too many problems.
Alternatively, you can spawn them in pairs. Under this method, the fish are conditioned in female and male groups in separate tanks with a high-quality diet of frozen and live foods, with a slightly higher temperature than you usually have in the main tank and somewhat acidic water.
When the females are full of eggs, and the males present their best colours, select the best-coloured male and the healthiest female and place them in the breeding tank. The couple should spawn the following day.
In either situation, the adults will consume the eggs if given a chance and should be removed at the first chance.
The eggs will hatch in around 24-36 hours, and the fry will become free swimming 3-4 days after that.
It would be best to feed the fry with infusoria type foods for the first few days until they are big enough to accept brine shrimp nauplii and microworm. The eggs and fry are sensitive to light in the early stages, so it would be a good idea to keep the lights dim or maybe even off.