Glass Bloodfin Tetra (Prionobrama filigera)
Glass Bloodfin Tetras are a peaceful and relatively active shoaling species that you can keep with many other fish species that enjoy similar water conditions making them an excellent choice for the community aquarium. Their comparative hardiness makes them ideal for the beginner aquarist. Rival males can sometimes squabble amongst themselves, and this is one of several good reasons you should always keep them in groups of at least six to eight individuals.
Ideal tankmates for these Tetras are other similarly-sized Characins, smaller Loricariid Catfish, Apistogramma, Corydoras, Mikrogeophagus and in a suitably-sized aquarium, even slightly larger Cichlids such as Discus or Angelfish. It is recommended that you avoid bigger, more boisterous species that inhabit similar tank areas as they tend to stress out and become withdrawn if they are outcompeted for swimming space and food.
Glass Bloodfin Tetras are not the most colourful of the Tetras; however, they're still quite a stunning species. They have an elongated slender body that is entirely transparent where you can see the stomach, brain and bones of the fish, except for the tail, which is a scarlet colour. Sometimes when these fish swim around and catch the light, they display a bluish iridescence.
|Scientific Name||Prionobrama filigera|
|Origins||Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||5 - 7 years|
|PH||6.0 - 7.5|
|GH||5 - 20|
|73 - 81℉|
22.8 - 27.2℃
Photos of the Glass Bloodfin Tetra
Glass Bloodfin Tetras are endemic to Ecuador, Columbia, Brazil and Bolivia in the Amazon Basin in South America. These Tetras inhabit
small creeks, streams and tributaries rather than the main river channels, usually amongst insignificant areas of thick aquatic vegetation and shaded sites provided by the tree canopies above.
What to feed the Glass Bloodfin Tetra
The upturned mouth and somewhat keeled body shape propose that this Tetra species feeds principally on small invertebrates obtained from the water surface in the wild.
In the aquarium, they favour live and frozen foods such as brine shrimp, cyclops, daphnia, mosquito larvae and bloodworm. However, It would be better for your fish if you fed them on a varied diet; therefore, it is advised that you also give them dried alternatives such as micropellets and flakes, which they will also happily accept. This will result in optimal health and the best colours for your fish.
How to breed the Glass Bloodfin Tetra
Glass Bloodfin Tetras are not difficult to breed, although you will require a separate breeding tank if you would like to raise decent numbers of fry. The tank should be dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as Hornwort, Java Moss or Anacharis; spawning mops will also work. This will provide your Tetras somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the tank base with some mesh; this should be big enough to allow eggs to fall through but small enough to stop the adults from reaching them.
The water will need to be soft and acidic with a pH of between 6.0-7.0, a general hardness of between 1 and 5, and a temperature between 80 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit. Filtration is unnecessary; however, a small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently will provide an excellent food source of micro-organisms for your fry to graze on.
You can spawn these Tetras in a group, with half a dozen individuals of each sex being an ideal number. However, it would be more beneficial if you conditioned them with plenty of small live or frozen foods, then spawning should not bestow too many problems.
Another method you could use would be to spawn them in pairs. Under this system, the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. Once you notice the females are gravid and the males are displaying their best colours, you should then select the fattest female and the best-coloured male and transfer them to the breeding tank in the evening. They should produce the following day.
Using either method, the adults will eat the eggs if given a chance; therefore, you should remove the parents as soon as you notice any eggs.
The eggs will usually hatch between 14 and 36 hours depending on the temperature of your water, and the babies will become free swimming 3 to 4 days after that. You should provide the fry with infusoria type foods for the first few days until they are big enough to accept microworm or baby brine shrimp.