Colombian Redfin Tetra (Hyphessobrycon columbianus)
The Colombian Redfin Tetra is commonly a hardy, adaptable and active fish and it fairs well in a community aquarium. They can be a bit nippy at long fins, so keeping them in a larger group will essentially cease that behaviour.
The Colombian Redfin Tetra has a silvery-grey body and displays a turquoise-blue tinge of developing intensity from the lateral line upwards, which becomes a noticeable stripe across the anterior dorsal ridge.
The fins are mostly a bright blood red colour, but the colour fades as the fish pauses. The ventral fins are transparent to light orange, and the anal fin is ordinarily edged with black, and both the caudal and dorsal fins have whitish tips.
Tank Mates for the Colombian Redfin Tetra
1 ideal tank mate ideas for the Colombian Redfin Tetra include:
|Scientific Name||Hyphessobrycon columbianus|
|Other Names||Colombian Tetra, Red Tail Mirror Blue Tetra, Blue-red Colombian Tetra|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||5.5 - 7.5|
|GH||6 - 15|
|75 - 80℉|
23.9 - 26.7℃
Photos of the Colombian Redfin Tetra
The Colombian Redfin Tetra originates from the Rio Acandi in Choco Department, Northern Colombia, close to the border with Panama.
They inhabit small, slow-flowing creeks, streams, tributaries and waterways that are heavily vegetated and have submerged tree roots.
What to feed the Colombian Redfin Tetra
These Tetras are easily fed in the home aquarium. For the best colours and condition offer them small but regular feedings of frozen and live foods such as daphnia, bloodworm and brine shrimp as well as high quality dried granules and flakes, making sure some of which include algae or plant content.
How to breed the Colombian Redfin Tetra
The Colombian Redfin Tetra is a typical egg scatterer and not difficult to breed.
A separate breeding tank will be required with soft acidic water, dim lighting, gentle filtration and the tank should be heavily planted with fine-leaved plants such as java moss or a spawning mop is also suitable.
It would be better for you to condition your fish with high-quality live or flake food three to five times per day.
You will know when a female is ready to spawn as she becomes very plump. At this point, you should place your best-coloured male and the healthiest female in the breeding tank. When the couple is ready to spawn, the male will dart about the tank after the female, presently performing a courting display in which he flicks his fins and shimmies near the female. They will both serve a sort of barrel roll, and the female discharges her eggs, and the male fertilizes them.
A regular spawning will produce around 100 to 150 tiny clear semi-adhesive eggs. The parents will not provide any parental care and will consume the eggs if they are given the opportunity, so it is better to remove them as soon as spawning has finished.
The eggs are susceptible to light, so keep the breeding tank covered or dark.
Hatching usually occurs around 36 hours later, and the fry becomes free-swimming about four days later.
The fry should first be fed infusoria or unicellular organisms, and then on to finely crushed flake food. Several days after that, you can provide them with freshly hatched brine shrimp and micro worms to help them grow.