Yoma Danio (Danio feegradei)
Yoma Danios are peaceful fish; however, you should ideally house them in a large aquarium containing similarly sized robust species due to their constant activity and their lively feeding behaviour.
Although not aggressive, these Danios may disturb very slow-moving or timid tankmates, so avoid keeping them with this sort of fish. Ideal tankmates for these Danios include Loaches, Cichlids, Gouramis, Catfish, larger Tetras and many Cyprinids. It would be best if you did not house them with much larger or more aggressive fish species that may see them as prey.
Though sociable by nature, Yoma Danios are a shoaling fish rather than a schooling fish and they only group together tightly when they feel threatened. At other times rival males often battle. However, if you maintain these fish in groups of 8 or more, this will allow the weaker fish of both sexes a break from the alpha individuals, which can be pretty aggressive at times.
Yoma Danios look especially effective in a heavily-planted aquarium with a dark substrate and may seem duller in minimalistic setups. The ideal aquarium setup would mimic a flowing stream or river with a substrate of differently sized gravel and rocks alongside smooth stones or boulders.
You can use extra powerheads or filter outlets to improve the flow; however, you should avoid very fast-flowing currents because small Danios usually inhabit calmer waters in the wild. It would benefit your fish if you also added some driftwood roots and branches and some hardy aquatic plants such as Anubias or Microsorum that can grow on the decor.
Your aquarium will need to have a tight-fitting lid because these Danios are excellent jumpers and can fit through the smallest of gaps.
Yoma Danios have blueish-silver colouration along their sides, and they have two rows of gold spots along their flanks. You can find the first row of dots (usually around 14) along the lateral line, and the second row of dots (generally around 6) are just below the lateral line.
The males possess an orange border on their anal, pectoral and ventral fins, and the females include a white border. In addition, both the males and females have an orange spot just behind their gill cover and a big, dark spot at the base of their caudal fin.
|Scientific Name||Danio feegradei|
|Aquarium Level||Bottom - Middle|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 8+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||6.5 - 7.5|
|GH||1 - 18|
|TDS||36 - 215|
|64 - 77℉|
17.8 - 25℃
Photos of the Yoma Danio
Yoma Danios are endemic to the Thandwe District of Rahkine in Myanmar in Southeast Asia and have also been collected in Sandoway in southern Myanmar. These Danios inhabit still to slow-flowing clear waters in pools, forest streams and ditches, and the substrate consisted of gravel, stones and rocks. In their natural habitat, aquatic plants were scarce; however, there was plenty of bushes and trees in the surrounding area.
What to feed the Yoma Danio
Yoma Danios primarily prey on insect larvae in nature. However, these Danios are unfussy in the aquarium and will accept most foods.
You should use high quality dried food as the staple diet; however, you should supplement this with frequent meals of small live and frozen food such as daphnia, bloodworm and artemia as these will help your fish display their best colours.
How to sex the Yoma Danio
It is relatively easy to differentiate between the male and female Yoma Danios. Males are more colourful, smaller and somewhat slimmer, and they have orange colouration on the edges of their ventral and anal fins, whereas the females are white. If you have multiple males, one or more individuals will generally develop an alpha position and become even more intensely coloured.
How to breed the Yoma Danio
Yoma Danios are an egg-scattering spawner that exhibits no parental care. When these Danios are in good condition, they will often spawn. In a densely-planted, well-established aquarium, small amounts of babies may start to appear without intervening. However, if you want to increase the fry quantity, a slightly more controlled approach is needed.
You can condition the adult group together, although you will need to set up a separate breeding tank and half fill it with water. A dimly lit tank will also be helpful. It would be better if you also covered the bottom with a mesh so eggs may fall through and the adults will not be able to reach them. Alternatively, you can use artificial grass, which works very well, or fill much of the tank with fine-leaved plants; java moss can also achieve good results.
The water should be relatively soft and slightly acidic to neutral. You should set the temperature towards the higher end of the range, and you can initially add a small air-powered filter. It would be best to position the filter so that the current flows down the entire length of the tank, or you may install a mature sponge-type filter.
Once the adult fish are well-conditioned and the females appear full of eggs, you can introduce one or two pairs to the separate tank.
You can trigger spawning by feeding small amounts of live and frozen foods to the pairs and adding small amounts of cold water every few hours in such a way that the tank is gradually topped up. The couple should then spawn the following morning. The easiest way to know if the female has spawned or not is to look and see if she is noticeably slimmer.
The adults will consume any eggs they find, so you should remove them after a couple of days. At this point, you should exchange the power filter for a sponge-type unit to avoid fry being sucked into the device.
The incubation period is temperature-dependent to an extent. Still, it usually takes around 36 hours for the eggs to hatch and then 3 to 4 days later, the young start to swim freely.
Initially, it would help to feed the fry with a proprietary dry food of sufficiently small grade or Paramecium. Then, once the fry is large enough to accept more significant foods, you can introduce them to microworm and baby brine shrimp.