Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish (Pseudomugil luminatus)
The Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish is very rare, and it is one of the most gorgeously coloured and outstanding nano fish. These fish are a peaceful species; however, they are unsuitable for the general community aquarium because they are very small and will easily be outcompeted for food.
These Rainbowfish are best maintained in a species only aquarium or alongside fish that are similar in size, nature and share the same water requirements. The best tankmates for these fish would be adult Dwarf Shrimp and other Invertebrates.
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish are a shoaling species that you should keep in groups of at least eight individuals, ideally more. Keeping them in more significant numbers will make the fish less nervous and result in a more efficient, natural-looking display. The males will also display some fascinating behaviour and show their best colours as they compete for female attention.
These fish will fare much better in a densely planted aquarium with floating plants and driftwood roots or branches; this will help diffuse the light that these fish will appreciate and add a more natural feel.
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish exhibit bright reddish-orange colouration on their bodies, and they have a light blue stripe down their back as well as blue rings around their eyes. In addition, their fins have widely scattered black spots and the tips of their caudal fin lobes, and the upper edge of pectoral fins have prominent white to yellow markings.
Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish (Pseudomugil luminatus) Video
|Scientific Name||Pseudomugil luminatus|
|Other Names||Red Neon Rainbowfish|
|Origins||Indonesia, Papua New Guinea|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 8+|
|Lifespan||1 - 2 years|
|PH||6.5 - 7.5|
|GH||12 - 15|
|TDS||36 - 215|
|64 - 79℉|
17.8 - 26.1℃
In the home aquarium, the Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish will readily accept most good quality dried foods such as granules, flakes and sinking pellets. These modern food products have been developed to provide all adequate nutrition to maintain your fish's health and dietary requirements.
Providing additional foodstuffs such as live, frozen, and freeze-dried meals such as bloodworm, daphnia, and tubifex once or twice a week will provide additional benefits to your fish's health and well-being but is not a must for this fish.
It should be noted that bloodworms should only be given as an occasional treat and should not be used as the staple diet as they are difficult for fish to digest and can potentially cause blockages.
This fish is an omnivore in the wild, meaning it will consume some vegetable matter. Although most modern fish foods take this into account and include them in their products, you can still supplement your fish's diet with blanched vegetables such as spinach, broccoli, and zucchini. Ensure you do not overfeed your fish and remove any leftovers the following day.
It is effortless to differentiate between male and female Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish. The males have bright neon red to reddish-orange and blue colouration on their bodies and fins, especially when competing. As males mature, their second anal and dorsal fins become very extended and fan-shaped. However, despite their smaller size and shorter fins, there is still some vibrant colouration on the females.
Breeding the Red Neon Blue Eye Rainbowfish is straightforward once these fish are happily established and settled into your aquarium. You will need a mature pair or group of males and females, along with a spawning mop, preferably floating at the top of the aquarium downwards to the substrate.
Despite spawning year-round, Rainbowfish lay many eggs at the beginning of the rainy season. In addition, temperature increases, and live and frozen foods often encourage spawning.
Check your spawning mops daily for any eggs that have been deposited and either remove the eggs from the mop or, better still, remove the entire mop to avoid contamination of the Rainbowfish eggs.
Tip: Have several spawning mops at hand so you can place a fresh spawning mop into the aquarium while you wait for the eggs to hatch on the other mop/s.
Place the spawning mop with eggs still attached into a separate small cycled aquarium with a sponge filter for flow, and add a few drops of Methylene Blue (Methylene Blue helps prevent fungal infections of eggs).
Your rainbowfish Eggs will hatch within 7 to 18 days, depending on the species and the temperature. We recommend 27°C = 80.6°F for the fastest development of fry.
Once the Rainbowfish fry hatch, they absorb their yolk sacs quickly and become free swimming, moving towards the water's surface. Once the fry reaches the water's surface, you can start feeding. We recommend feeding on Micorworm (the most straightforward live food to culture) and decapsulated brine shrimp egg powder several times a day while being careful not to overfeed and pollute the water column.
After a week or two, you can start to add newly hatched brine shrimp, but this isn't necessary to achieve a high success rate in our experience.
Rainbowfish fry grows slowly, so you should expect to wait several months before the fry is large enough to be added to the adult colony.