Red Line Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amapaensis)
The Red Line Tetra is a stunning, active and peaceful shoaling fish ideal for an established well-planted softwater aquarium. You should always maintain these Tetras in groups of 6 or more, this will not only make the fish feel more secure, but this will result in a far more effective, natural-looking shoal.
Tankmates should be small and peaceful, as these fish are easily intimidated by more extensive or more boisterous species.
The Red Line Tetra has a pale, silvery iridescent body displaying a thick red line running from the gill plate through to the caudal peduncle, it is underlined with a thinner white band followed by a black band. The eye is also half red. The fins are generally colourless with a hint of yellow.
|Scientific Name||Hyphessobrycon amapaensis|
|Other Names||Amapa Tetra, Scarlet Tetra, Neon Black Red Stripe Tetra|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||5.0 - 7.0|
|GH||5 - 15|
|KH||2 - 8|
|74 - 82℉|
23.3 - 27.8℃
Photos of the Red Line Tetra
The Red Line Tetra is only known from a small area within the Rio Maraca and Rio Preto drainages in Amapa state in Northeastern Brazil in South America. They inhabit small streams and creeks that flow through savanna grasslands that contain light brown coloured, clear water and the substrate is made up of gravel and sand. There is hardly any submerged or riparian vegetation.
What to feed the Red Line Tetra
Offer Red Line Tetra a varied diet that includes high-quality foods such as flakes and micropellets as well as providing them with small frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, vitamin-enriched brine shrimp, Moina and daphnia. This will ensure optimal health and colour of your Tetras.
How to sex the Red Line Tetra
There aren't many differences between the male and female Red Line Tetra However, sexually mature females are typically larger and noticeably deeper-bodied than males.
How to breed the Red Line Tetra
When in good condition adults will often spawn, and in an established aquarium small numbers of fry may likely start to appear without intervention, but if you want to increase yield a more controlled approach is required.
You may still condition the adult group together, but a smaller aquarium should also be set up and filled with mature water. This needs to be very dimly lit and the bottom covered with some mesh of a large enough size so that the eggs can pass through but small enough so that the adults cannot get to them. Plastic grass matting can also be used and works well, as does a layer of pebbles or glass marbles. Alternatively, you can fill much of the tank with fine-leaved plants. Spawning mops can also deliver decent results.
The water needs to be slightly acidic to neutral with a temperature towards the higher end. You should also include an air stone or an air-powered sponge filter to accommodate water movement and oxygenation.
Once the adult fish are well-conditioned a single pair or group containing several females and one or two males can then be introduced to each tank and left in place until eggs are discovered this typically happens the following morning.
It would be best if you initially feed the babies with infusoria or Paramecium or an exclusive dry food of sufficiently small size. Then once the fry is large enough, you can then introduce them to foods such as microworm and artemia nauplii.