Red Line Rasbora (Trigonopoma pauciperforata)
Red Line Rasboras are peaceful, active and adaptable and will do well in various water conditions. These fish are ideal for a peaceful community aquarium with similarly-sized Cyprinids, small Loaches, other Rasboras, and Pencilfish. However, it would be best to avoid boisterous or vigorous tankmates as they may outcompete the Red Line Rasboras for food as they are somewhat of a slow feeder.
The Red Line Rasboras do better and tend to show better colouration in an established, heavily planted aquarium as their colours intensify when settled into a well-planted setting. Having a dark substrate along with some spindly driftwood and dark caves will also help them settle in. The addition of dried leaf litter such as beech, oak or almond leaves would further accentuate the natural feel as well as promote the growth of beneficial microbe colonies as breakdown occurs. In addition, tannins and other chemicals released by the decaying leaves will simulate a blackwater environment.
Red Line Rasboras are a shoaling species that you should maintain in groups of 6 or more individuals; ten or more would be better. Keeping these fish in more significant numbers will not only make your fish less nervous but will result in a more practical, natural-looking display. Males will also display their best colours as they compete with each other for female attention.
The Red Line Rasbora has an elongated brownish-grey body and a forked tail. Their backs are olive-brown, and their stomachs are white. Their fins are a smokey grey colour, and they display a bright neon reddish-orange stripe that runs parallel from the tip of the snout through the upper part of the eye to the caudal fin.
| Quick Facts | |
|---|---|
| Scientific Name | Trigonopoma pauciperforata |
| Other Names | Red Stripe Rasbora, Redstriped Rasbora, Redlined Rasbora, Glowlight Red Line Rasbora |
| Family | Cyprinidae |
| Genus | Trigonopoma |
| Origins | Southeast Asia |
| Temperament | Peaceful |
| Aquarium Level | Middle - Top |
| Difficulty | Beginner - Intermediate |
| Shoaling | Yes |
| Best kept as | Groups 8+ |
| Diet | Omnivore |
| Reproduction | Egg-Scatterer |
| Lifespan | 3 - 5 years |
| Water Parameters | |
|---|---|
| Water Type | Freshwater |
| PH | 5.0 - 7.5 |
| GH | 5 - 12 |
| TDS | 0 - 179 |
| Temperature | |
| 69 - 79℉ 20.6 - 26.1℃ | |
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Red Line Rasbora (Trigonopoma pauciperforata) Aquarium Fish Species Profile & Care Guide
Natural Habitat
Red Line Rasboras are endemic to Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore, and the Greater Sunda Islands of Borneo and Sumatra in Southeast Asia. These Rasboras inhabit black water rivers and streams associated with ancient forest peat swamps. The water is typically stained dark brown due to tannins and other chemicals released by decaying natural material. They prefer shallow overgrown, shaded, slow-moving to almost still streams with dense vegetation.
Other Rasboras of interest
What to feed the Red Line Rasbora
Red Line Rasboras are easily fed in the aquarium; however, you should offer them a mixed diet for your fish's best condition and colours. Their diet should consist of frozen and live foods such as artemia, bloodworm and daphnia alongside good quality dried flakes, tubifex and granules.
How to Sex the Red Line Rasbora
It is quite challenging to distinguish the males from the female Red Line Rasboras. However, the males are usually slightly smaller and slimmer than females and possess a red line on their bodies. In contrast, females are somewhat larger, are much plumper, especially when spawning, and the line on the female's body is more of an orange colour rather than red.
How to Breed the Red Line Rasbora
Like most small Cyprinids, the Red Line Rasboras are egg-scattering free spawners that exhibit no parental care. However, when in good condition, they may often produce, and small numbers of fry may start to appear without intervention in an established aquarium. If you would like to maximise yield, a more controlled approach will be required.
You can condition an adult group together, but you will need to set up a separate breeding tank. You should fill this tank with mature water and cover the bottom with some mesh with large enough holes for the eggs to fall through but small enough so the adults cannot reach them. Artificial grass matting can also be used and works well, so does a layer of glass marbles. Alternatively, filling much of the tank with fine-leaved plants such as Java Moss or spawning mops can also return decent results.
The water in your breeding tank should be slightly acidic, the temperature will need to be somewhat higher than usual, and you will also need an air-powered sponge filter or air stone. This will provide water movement and oxygenation.
Once you have conditioned the adults with plenty of live and frozen foods and the females appear gravid, you should then introduce one or two pairs into the breeding tank. Spawning will usually take place the following morning. An alternative method is to spawn the fish in a group, with half a dozen individuals of each sex being ideal. However, you will need a larger aquarium if you choose to do this.
Whichever method you choose, the adults will likely consume the eggs if given a chance; therefore, you should remove the eggs or the parents as soon as you notice any.
The eggs should hatch between 18 and 48 hours later depending on temperature, and the fry will become free-swimming 3 to 4 days after that. You should feed the fry with infusoria grade food for the first few days until they are large enough to accept crushed flake food, baby brine shrimp and microworm.