Neon Green Rasbora (Microdevario kubotai)
Neon Green Rasboras have a peaceful disposition and are relatively hardy, making them wonderful members of the well-planted or nano aquarium. A large school of Neon Green Rasboras will fill the upper area of the aquarium with so much colour and activity that even non-hobbyists will appreciate the display.
It would be best to keep Neon Green Rasboras in groups of 8 to 10 individuals as they are a schooling species in the wild. Maintaining them in more significant numbers will make these fish less nervous and result in a natural, more effective looking display. In addition, males will also display their best colours as they compete with each other for female attention.
Neon Green Rasboras are not always suitable for the typical community aquarium because of their small size and slightly timid nature. However, if you have larger groups, plenty of coverage and peaceful tankmates, it could work and give them much more confidence.
The aquarium should be designed so that there are areas of dense planting, including shady bogwood pieces. These Rasboras would also appreciate the addition of some floating plants to help diffuse the light. The aquarium needs to have moderate water movement to encourage good oxygenation levels; however, the current should not be too harsh. The aquarium must be well established, and you will need to perform plenty of small partial water changes regularly.
Neon Green Rasboras have greyish-olive bodies with an iridescent greenish-yellow hue. In addition, they possess a prominent metallic yellowish-gold lateral stripe, and their dorsal and anal fins are translucent.
|Scientific Name||Microdevario kubotai|
|Other Names||Yellow Neon Rasbora, Kubotas Microrasbora|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 8+|
|Lifespan||3 - 7 years|
|Temperature||72 - 82 ℉ (22.2 - 27.8 ℃)|
|PH||5.5 - 7.5|
|GH||4 - 8|
|TDS||18 - 179|
Neon Green Rasboras occur in the Ataran River basin, a tributary within the Salween drainage in southern Myanmar as well as the Ranong and Phang Nga provinces on the northwestern slope of peninsular in Thailand in Southeast Asia. In addition, these Rasboras have also been recorded in the Suriya River basin in Thailand.
Neon Green Rasboras inhabit calm to moderately-flowing ranges of well-oxygenated headwaters and minor tributaries with clear water. Their habitats usually contain submerged driftwood, aquatic vegetation and roots of riparian vegetation and the substrate is typically made up of gravel, sand, rocks, stones, and patches of leaf litter.
Other Rasboras of interest
Diet & Feeding
Neon Green Rasboras are not particularly fussy about what they eat. They will readily accept good quality dried food such as flakes, pellets and granules. However, it would be best to include some frozen or live food into their diet; this can consist of brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, and insect larvae. It would help if you remembered that these are very small fish with tiny mouths, so any food you provide must be of suitable size.
Neon Green Rasboras will also appreciate some blanched vegetables on occasion; lettuce, zucchini, or kale are all excellent choices.
It is somewhat straightforward to differentiate between male and female Neon Green Rasboras. Mature males will be more vibrantly coloured and more compact than females. In contrast, the females will typically be slightly larger and will take on a more gravid appearance when ready to reproduce.
In a densely planted aquarium with large groups of well-conditioned Neon Green Rasboras, spawnings should occur regularly, with eggs being scattered over the vegetation and the decor. The eggs and fry will be seen as food by the adults, but some should survive into adulthood if there is plenty of plant cover.
However, if you require a more significant number of fry, a more controlled approach will be required. You will need to set up a separate breeding tank with plenty of plants or spawning mops.
Once you have set up the breeding tank, you should then place a pair of well-conditioned adults into it. Once spawning has finished, usually, 2 or 3 days later, you should carefully remove the adults and put them back into their usual aquarium; otherwise, they will eat any eggs if given a chance.
The incubation period is temperature-dependent, but it typically takes around 72 hours, with the young becoming free-swimming 3 to 4 days later. You should first feed the fry on infusoria type foods moving on to baby brine shrimp, microworm or crushed flake food once the fry are large enough to accept them.