Lake Inle Danio (Devario auropurpureus, Inlecypris auropurpurea, Barilius auropurpureus)
Lake Inle Danios are very peaceful, active, and undemanding fish with great personalities and are also a perfect dither fish. However, these Danios are professional jumpers, so it is essential that you have a tight-fitting lid.
Lake Inle Danios are a schooling species, so ideally, you should purchase a group of at least 8 to 10 individuals. These Danios will not compete well with larger or more boisterous tankmates as they can be a little skittish; however, you can minimise this behaviour by adding floating plants or keeping them alongside other aquatic species.
These Danios are best maintained in a densely planted aquarium, and they are an excellent choice for the carefully aquascaped setup. The addition of floating plants to distribute the light entering also appears to be appreciated. Finally, the movement of the water does not need to be particularly strong.
Lake Inle Danios have a torpedo-shaped, silvery-opaque body with 20 to 30 black vertical stripes on a golden-yellow band running across its sides. The shape and number of the stripes are slightly different for each individual fish. In addition, all their fins are transparent except for the caudal fin, which displays some yellow colouration. Finally, they lack the typical barbels of many Danio species.
|Scientific Name||Devario auropurpureus, Inlecypris auropurpurea, Barilius auropurpureus|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 8+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||6.0 - 8.0|
|GH||10 - 25|
|TDS||54 - 268|
|68 - 75℉|
20 - 23.9℃
Lake Inle Danios are endemic to Lake Inle and the surrounding waters in the Shan State of Myanmar in Southeast Asia. Lake Inle is known for its floating islands, which many fish species appreciate as it creates an excellent place to hide from predators and search for food. The local people build these islands by tying plants together. The water in these habitats is clear and usually relatively shallow and has a very fertile, sandy substrate, although it can be dirty and muddy around the edges.
In the wild, Lake Inle Danios feed mainly on aquatic invertabrates, insect larvae and worms from the substrate during the day and eat caddisflies and mayflies from the surface at night. In the home aquarium, these Danios are unfussy and will accept most things.
A high quality dried product should be used as the staple diet; however, you should supplement this with frequent helpings of small live and frozen fares such as Bloodworm, Daphnia and Artemia. Feeding your fish a balanced diet will result in optimal health.
It is somewhat tricky to distinguish between male and female Lake Inle Danios. However, sexually mature females are typically a little more robust, duller, and grow slightly larger than males.
Like many Cyprinids, Lake Inle Danios scatter eggs amongst aquatic vegetation and do not exhibit any parental care. However, if your fish are in good condition, they will often spawn. In an established planted aquarium, small numbers of fry may start to appear without intervention. However, if you would like to increase the yield, a slightly more controlled approach will be required.
You can still condition the adult group together, but you should set up a separate breeding tank; that way, once you have successfully bred your Danios, you can then use it as a rearing tank. You should fill this tank with fine-leaved plants, and if these are unavailable, then spawning mops will work just as well. Alternatively, you can cover the bottom with a mesh with big enough holes for the eggs to fall through but small enough so that the parents cannot reach the eggs. Artificial grass matting can also be used and works well, so does a layer of glass marbles.
The breeding tank water should have slightly acidic to neutral pH levels, and the temperature needs to be a little higher than the main aquarium. You should also include an air-powered sponge filter or air stone to provide water movement and oxygenation.
Once the adults have been well-conditioned and the females appear gravid, you should then introduce one or two pairs to the breeding tank. Spawning should occur within 24 hours. However, you should not leave the fish in the tank for more than 48 hours.
Once the eggs have been laid, you should then remove the parents from the breeding tank and place them back in their regular tank; otherwise, they will consume the eggs if given a chance.
The incubation period is temperature-dependent but typically lasts 50 to 60 hours, with the fry becoming free-swimming a few days after that. Therefore, it would be better to initially feed the fry with Paramecium or infusoria type foods and then introduce artemia nauplii, microworms and powdered dry foods once they are large enough to accept them.