Kogal Blue Eyed Tetra (Moenkhausia sp)
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras are peaceful and active shoaling fish that visually improve as they mature. These fish can tolerate harder water conditions but should only be kept in soft to medium water conditions over a long period.
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras are shoaling fish in nature; therefore, you should keep these fish in a group of at least six individuals. If you maintain these Tetras in decent numbers, any altercations are generally contained within the group. However, like most Tetras, this species fares better in the presence of their own kind and are usually a little skittish if you keep them in insufficient numbers.
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras are best kept in an aquarium with plenty of aquatic plants, open swimming spaces, as well as subdued lighting or shade. Using a dark substrate would also be beneficial as this would show off their beautiful colours.
As these Tetras are relatively active, they are best kept with other active tankmates. Similarly-sized Tetras, Barbs, larger Rasboras, Rainbowfish and most Danionins all make excellent choices. In addition, bottom dwellers such as Corydoras Catfish and Loaches are also good companions. These Tetras can also be used as a dither fish for non-aggressive, medium-sized Cichlids.
The Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras have golden iridescent bodies and a dark line horizontally crossing their bright blue eyes. These fish also display an elongated horizontal blotch on their caudal peduncle.
|Scientific Name||Moenkhausia sp|
|Other Names||Kogal Yellow Tetra, Yellow Moenkhausia|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||5.5 - 7.5|
|GH||5 - 12|
|KH||4 - 8|
|75 - 82℉|
23.9 - 27.8℃
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras originate from the upper Rio Machado, located within the Rio Madiera River Basin drainage in Brazil. in South America. They inhabit small, wide, deep, clear waters with a swift current, and their substrate is composed of sand and dead leaves. Overhanging trees surround their habitat. Unfortunately, their habitat is threatened due to the continuing decline in habitat quality and limited geographical distribution.
Other Tetras of interest
What to feed the Kogal Blue Eyed Tetra
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras are relatively easy to feed, and they will readily accept just about anything offered. However, for the best colours and conditions, you should offer them regular meals of small frozen, live and freeze-dried foods such as bloodworm, brine shrimp and daphnia alongside good quality dried food such as flakes, granules and algae wafers. It would be beneficial if you were also to include some vegetable matter in their diet; spinach leaves are the most favoured.
How to Sex the Kogal Blue Eyed Tetra
It is quite challenging to differentiate between the males and female Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras. The only genuinely distinguishing feature is that the females have more rounded bodies than males when ready to breed.
How to Breed the Kogal Blue Eyed Tetra
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras will become sexually mature around ten months old, and they will require a separate breeding tank. The breeding tank needs to be dimly lit with soft water, and you should raise the temperature by a few degrees than their usual aquarium. It would be best if the breeding tank were heavily planted to provide shaded areas for them to spawn in. However, if plants aren't available, they will also scatter their eggs on spawning mops, substrate, or the glass bottom.
For the healthiest fry, you will need to choose your biggest female and the best-coloured male and place them into the breeding tank. Make sure you feed them with plenty of live and frozen foods, as this will encourage them to spawn.
Kogal Blue Eyed Tetras usually spawn early in the morning, and when they are ready to breed, they will lock fins and carry out a somersault movement in the plants. The female will lay hundreds of eggs over a certain period which the male will fertilise.
Once spawning has occurred, you should then remove the parents straight away as they will consume the eggs if given a chance.
Between 24 to 36 hours later, the eggs will start to hatch out,
then 3 to 4 days after that, the fry will become free swimming and grow relatively quickly.
It would be best if you fed the fry on infusoria for the first few days, moving on to microworm and baby brine shrimp once large enough to accept them.