Jaintia Danio (Danio jaintianensis)
Jaintia Danios are peaceful, but their temperature requirements and rarity make them difficult to recommend for the general community aquarium. Therefore, these fish are best kept in a species only aquarium or an aquarium that houses other small Cyprinids that appreciate much cooler water conditions.
Other possible tankmates could include Loaches from the genera Nemacheilus or Lepidocephalichthys and Catfish such as Hara or Akysis. Freshwater Gobies such as Stiphodon spp and Rhinogobius could also work, as would numerous freshwater shrimp.
Jaintia Danios are schooling species in nature; therefore, you should ideally keep them in a group of at least eight individuals, preferably more. Maintaining these Danios in more significant numbers will not only make your fish less skittish but will also result in a more natural-looking display. At the same time, males will also reveal their best colours as they compete with one another for female attention.
Jaintia Danios would look incredibly effective in a heavily-planted aquarium with a dark substrate or an aquarium set-up designed to mimic a flowing stream or river. The substrate could consist of gravel, differently-sized rocks, or large smooth boulders.
You can use additional powerheads or filter outlets to provide water flow; however, you should avoid very fast-flowing currents as small Danios typically occupy calmer stretches of water in nature. Hardy aquatic plants such as Microsorum, Anubias and Bolbitis can be added, as can driftwood roots and branches.
The aquarium will need to have a tight-fitting lid as Danios are accomplished jumpers and can fit through tiny gaps.
Tank Mates for the Jaintia Danio
2 ideal tank mate ideas for the Jaintia Danio include:
|Scientific Name||Danio jaintianensis|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 8+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||6.0 - 7.0|
|GH||2 - 8|
|TDS||18 - 143|
|0 - 73℉|
-17.8 - 22.8℃
Photos of the Jaintia Danio
Jaintia Danios are endemic to the Brahmaputra River system in Jaintia Hills District in Meghalaya in India. These fish inhabit small, slow-moving waters in hill streams. The substrate in these habitats usually consists of gravel and rocks, and they have plenty of marginal and overhanging vegetation.
What to feed the Jaintia Danio
Jaintia Danios diet primarily consists of insects and their larvae in nature. However, these Danios are unfussy feeders in the aquarium and will accept most foods. A high quality dried product can be used as the staple diet; however, it would be best to supplement this with frequent meals of small live and frozen foods such as daphnia, brine shrimp, and bloodworm. This will show your fish's best colouration and conditioning.
How to sex the Jaintia Danio
It is relatively straightforward to differentiate between male and female Jaintia Danios. Sexually mature females are usually rounder-bodied, less colourful, and a little larger than males. In contrast, males are bolder in colour, smaller and slimmer than females.
How to breed the Jaintia Danio
Currently, there are no reports on the successful breeding of Jaintia Danios; however, they are likely to produce the same as other Danio species.
Jaintia Danios are egg-scattering spawners who exhibit no parental care. When these fish are in good condition, they will often spawn. In a densely-planted, well-established aquarium, small numbers of fry may start to appear without intervention. However, if you want to increase the quantity of fry, a slightly more controlled approach is needed.
You can still condition the adult group together, but a breeding tank should also be set up and half-filled with water. You should dimly light the breeding tank and cover the bottom with a wide enough grade mesh so eggs may fall through but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. You can also use plastic grass matting, which works very well, or you can fill much of the tank with fine-leaved plants; java moss can also achieve good results.
The water should be relatively soft and slightly acidic to neutral. You should set the temperature towards the higher end of the range, and you can initially add a small air-powered filter. It would be best to position the current so that it is directed down the entire tank length or install a mature sponge-type filter.
Once the adult fish are well-conditioned and the females appear full of eggs, you can introduce one or two pairs to the separate tank.
You can initiate spawning by feeding small amounts of live and frozen foods to the pairs as well as adding small amounts of cold water every few hours in such a way that the tank is gradually topped up.
The couple should then spawn the following morning. The fastest and easiest way to tell if the female has spawned is to look at her to see if she is noticeably slimmer.
The adults will consume any eggs they find, so it is best to remove them after a couple of days. At this point, you should switch the power filter for a sponge-type unit to avoid fry being sucked into the device.
The incubation period is temperature-dependent to an extent. Still, it usually takes around 36 hours for the eggs to hatch and then 3 to 4 days later, the young become free-swimming.
It would be best to initially feed the fry with a proprietary dry food of sufficiently small grade or Paramecium. Then, once the fry is large enough to accept more significant foods, you can introduce them to microworm and baby brine shrimp.