Telescope Goldfish (Carassius auratus auratus) Species Profile & Care Guide
Telescope Goldfish are very friendly and thrive in a community aquarium with other Goldfish. Not only do they make excellent community fish, but they are also super scavengers. However, these Goldfish are not recommended for beginner aquarists. This isn't because they lack general hardiness but because of their highly telescopic eyes. Unfortunately, their eyes can cause them to have poor vision, so they are not a good contender for food. Their eyes are also subject to infection and injury.
These Goldfish will flourish when housed with the other similarly handicapped fish such as the Black Moor and the less hardy Goldfish such as the Lionhead Goldfish, the Celestial Goldfish and the Bubble Eye Goldfish. However, Telescope Goldfish will not do well with fast, competitive tankmates when it comes to feeding.
These fish are very undemanding in terms of temperature and water quality, and they can do well in an aquarium or a pond if the environment is protected, well maintained, and their tankmates are not competitive.
A lot of people will have Goldfish in an aquarium with no heater or filtration. Still, the best thing for your fish would be to provide them with the same filtration, especially biological filtration, that other aquarium inhabitants enjoy. Also, it would be best if you were careful when netting these fish, as their eyes are easily damaged.
Telescope Goldfish are one of the more rounded fancy Goldfish. They are very similar to the Fantail Goldfish except for their slightly smaller size and telescoping eyes. Their bodies are short and stubby with an extensive head and a split caudal fin that is average in length and slightly forked. You can also find these Goldfish with long flowing fins and other tail fin styles such as broadtail, veil tail and butterfly tail.
The Telescope Goldfish is available in various colours in both metallic and nacreous scale types but rarely in a matte scale type. These variations include solids of blue, chocolate, red, white, calico and tri-coloured, as well as bi-coloured versions in red and white and black and white. The bi-coloured black and white version is known as the Panda Telescope Goldfish, with one unique chocolate version that has orange pompoms.
|Scientific Name||Carassius auratus auratus|
|Other Names||Demekin, Dragon Eye Goldfish, Globe Eye Goldfish|
|Aquarium Level||All Levels|
|Lifespan||10 - 15 years|
|Temperature||65 - 72 ℉ (18.3 - 22.2 ℃)|
|PH||6.0 - 8.0|
|GH||5 - 19|
Natural Habitat of the Telescope Goldfish
Telescope Goldfish originated from a species of wild Carp in Siberia in Central Asia. Then after centuries of breeding, the wild carp morphed into the domesticated species you see today.
These Goldfish inhabit slow-moving and sometimes filthy waters in ponds, lakes, ditches and rivers, feeding on insects, plants, small crustaceans and detritus. Telescope Goldfish are commercially available globally and are just one of over one hundred captive-bred Goldfish varieties that exist in today's aquariums.
Other Goldfish of interest
Telescope Goldfish will usually eat all kinds of live, frozen, and dried foods. However, to keep a good balance and make their colours more vibrant and their growth rate more significant, you should provide them with high-quality flake food every day. You may also feed them either live or frozen fare such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia or tubifex as a treat.
However, freeze-dried foods instead of living foods are generally better to avoid bacterial infections and parasites that may be present in live food. In addition, due to their fleshy head growth, these fish may have poor sight and a more difficult time seeing their food, so you will need to allow them extra time to feed.
Breeding the Telescope Goldfish
The Telescope Goldfish is an egg layer that will quickly spawn if given the right conditions. You can breed them in groups as small as five individuals; however, they are very social fish and will produce in larger groups also. Unfortunately, the only time Goldfish will spawn in the wild is in the springtime. Therefore, to breed them in captivity, you will be required to mimic the conditions found in nature.
You should provide them with an aquarium of at least 75 litres and ensure your fish are healthy and disease-free. Some breeders recommend that you treat your fish for parasites and separate the males and females for a few weeks before breeding to help boost their interest in spawning. It would be best if you then introduced the fish into a breeding tank at the same time.
The breeding tank will need plenty of oxygenating plants and some decor with solid surfaces for the eggs to adhere to; you can also use artificial plants or spawning mops.
To induce spawning, you should slowly drop the temperature to around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and then slowly warm at a rate of 3 degrees daily until they spawn. Feeding your fish with lots of high protein food such as earthworms, brine shrimp, or black worms will also induce spawning.
Before spawning occurs, as the temperature increases, the male will chase the female around the aquarium in a non-aggressive way. This display can go on for several days, and the fish will intensify in colour.
During spawning, the fish will gyrate from side to side, and the male will push the female against the plants. This behaviour will excite the female into dropping tiny eggs, which the male will then fertilise. Sticky threads will attach the eggs to the plants or spawning mops. Spawning can last two to three hours, and it can produce up to 10,000 eggs. Unfortunately, the parents will start to eat as many eggs as they can find; therefore, you should remove the parents after spawning is complete.
The fertilised eggs will usually hatch within 4 to 7 days, depending on the temperature. You can then feed the newly hatched Goldfish speciality fry foods until they become big enough to eat baby brine shrimp or flakes; alternatively, you can offer the same food as you provide the parents as long as it is crushed finely.
Initially, the fry will be dark brown or black; this will allow them to hide better and not be eaten by larger fish. Once the babies grow to around 2.5 cm, they gain their adult colour, at which point you may put them in with larger fish.