Striped Barb (Desmopuntius johorensis)
The Striped Barb is one of the more significant Barb species. It is an active schooling fish, and they require ample open space for swimming.
They make an incredible waver fish and add a ton of movement to a community tank. The Striped Barb is a generally quiet and amazingly tough fish that will coexist well with comparably measured or bigger tankmates.
The Striped Barb is an attractive marked fish. Its body is a silvery colour has dark blue, almost black lateral stripes on its body immediately above and below the central bar. They have two pairs of barbels, thin, smooth lower lips and a serrated dorsal fin ray.
|Scientific Name||Desmopuntius johorensis|
|Other Names||Banded Barb, Lined Barb|
|Origins||Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||2 - 5 years|
|PH||5.0 - 7.0|
|GH||2 - 12|
|73 - 77℉|
22.8 - 25℃
Photos of the Striped Barb
The Striped Barb is native to southern Thailand, Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore, and the islands of Sumatra and Borneo in Indonesia in Southeast Asia.
They inhabit peat swamps and associated black water such as streams, rivers and ditches often in areas with submerged aquatic plants, grasses and dense riparian vegetation.
The water itself is usually stained brown with humic acids and other chemicals released by decomposing organic material.
What to feed the Striped Barb
Will accept most foods such as Flakes, granules, micropellets, and green flakes, some of which should contain additional plant or algal content. To achieve the best colours and condition it would be best to offer them frequent meals of small live and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae, artemia, and daphnia.
How to breed the Striped Barb
When in excellent condition and a developed aquarium, they will produce frequently. It's conceivable that little quantities of fry may begin to show up without intercession. In case you need to increase yield, a more controlled methodology is required.
You can still condition the adult group, but you will need a separate breeding tank. This tank should also be set up and filled with mature water, dim lighting and the bottom covered with some mesh of a significant enough grade so that the eggs can drop through but little enough so that the adults cannot reach them.
Artificial grass-like matting can also be used and works well, as does a layer of small pebbles or glass marbles. Alternatively filling much of the tank with fine-leaved plants or spawning mops can also deliver decent results.
The water itself should be neutral to slightly acidic with a somewhat raised temperature than usual as well as an air stone or an air-powered sponge filter this will provide water movement and oxygenation.
Once the adults are well-conditioned, and the females appear full of eggs, you should then introduce one or two pairs. Spawning should take place the very next morning.
Another method is to spawn the fish in a group with half a dozen males and females, although a larger aquarium may be necessary. In either circumstance, the parents will probably consume the eggs if given a chance and ought to be removed as soon as any eggs are visible.
The eggs should hatch approximately 24-36 hours later and then 3-4 days after that they will become free-swimming.
They should first be fed on an infusoria-grade, or powdered food for the first few days until they are big enough to accept artemia, microworm, and nauplii.