Snyders Barb (Puntius snyderi)
Snyder's Barbs are a peaceful and relatively hardy species that make ideal members of the well-researched community aquarium. You should maintain them in groups of 6 or more individuals because of their shoaling nature. Keeping them in larger groups will not only make your fish feel safer but will make the aquarium appear more natural. More significant numbers should guarantee a mix of both sexes, with competing males displaying intense red colouration on the lower half of their body when they are ready to spawn, making for quite the exhibition.
Ideal tankmates for Snyder's Barbs would be some of the Crossocheilus and Garra species or comparably-sized, peaceful Cyprinids. Other potential tankmates could include Balitorid, Cobitid, and Nemacheilid Loaches.
The best aquarium setup for these fish would include plants at the back and sides, driftwood, and an open swimming space provided in the centre. These Barbs will nip at soft, fine-leaved plants; therefore, it would be better to choose more robust plant species or plant species that can grow very quickly. In addition, these Barbs will need efficient filtration, with a decent level of oxygenation and areas of moderate water movement.
Synder's Barbs are a silvery green colour that develops into a rainbow colouration as they mature. They have 4 to 5 variably arranged dark vertical markings along the midline of the body and tiny, indistinct barbels, which are not always present in some individuals.
|Scientific Name||Puntius snyderi|
|Aquarium Level||Middle - Top|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||6.0 - 8.0|
|GH||2 - 20|
|TDS||36 - 357|
|64 - 75℉|
17.8 - 23.9℃
Photos of the Snyders Barb
Snyder's Barbs are a rare import from Rigyokutsu and Nanto in central and northern Taiwan. You can also find them on mainland China although those populations are still referred to as Gold Barbs. They partially resemble the wild form of these Chinese Barbs; however, there are a couple of minor differences.
Snyder's Barbs inhabit shallow, marginal areas of slow-moving streams, ponds and irrigation canals and are found primarily in habitats with dense riparian or aquatic vegetation.
What to feed the Snyders Barb
Snyder's Barbs are a scavenging omnivore that feeds primarily on algae, organic detritus, benthic diatoms, small insects, crustaceans, worms and other zooplankton in nature.
In the aquarium, these Barbs are easily fed; however, you should offer them a balanced diet for the best colours and conditions. Regular meals of adequately sized live and frozen foods such as daphnia, artemia and bloodworm should be provided frequently alongside high quality dried food such as flakes and granules, some of which should include other algae or plant content.
How to sex the Snyders Barb
It is relatively simple to differentiate between male and female Snyder's Barbs. Adult females are usually much rounder on the belly and typically grow slightly larger than the males. In contrast, sexually mature males develop red pigmentation on the lower part of the body and are usually slimmer.
How to breed the Snyders Barb
Unfortunately, the Snyder's Barb has not been bred in the home aquarium as of yet. Still, these Barbs would be an interesting breeding project for the committed hobbyist. Snyder Barbs would likely spawn in the same way as most other related Cyprinids.
It would be better to set up a separate breeding tank, making sure it is a good length as spawning is quite an active affair. In addition, it would be best if you furnished the tank with several large clumps of Java moss or artificial grass so the female may scatter her eggs over them.
The spawning of these fish is likely to be triggered by a slight temperature rise and when the first beams of morning light reach the aquarium.
The male will then vigorously chase the female back and forth over the top of the plants, where she will scatter her eggs, which are then simultaneously fertilised by the male. Most of the eggs should fall to the safety of the mediums; however, it is advisable that you remove the parents as soon as they have finished spawning; otherwise, they may consume the eggs.
The eggs will usually hatch in around 24 to 48 hours, and then the fry will be free swimming approximately 24 hours after that. It would be best if you fed the fry on an infusoria-grade food initially until they become large enough to accept microworm and artemia nauplii.