Rohani Barb (Dawkinsia Rohani) Species Profile & Care Guide
The Rohani Barb is a peaceful and lovely shoaling species and should be kept in groups of no less than six, with larger groups being better. Keeping them in decent numbers will not only make the fish less skittish but will result in a more effective, natural-looking display. They may also prove jumpy when first introduced, so a tight fighting lid is a must. This fish is very similar in appearance to the rarer Mascara Barb.
These fish are non-aggressive, though large, and will blend well with any fish that they cannot eat.
The Rohani Barb has an aluminous yellow-green fishnet pattern across the top half of its body contrasted with silver and displays a black teardrop mark just above the tail. It has a red and black dorsal fin a reddish colour caudal and anal fin and transparent pectoral and pelvic fins.
|Scientific Name||Dawkinsia Rohani|
|Other Names||Dawkinsia Rohani, Imperial Barb, Rohan's Filament Barb, Rohan's Tear Drop Barb|
|Aquarium Level||Bottom - Middle|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||8 - 10 years|
|Temperature||65 - 78 ℉ (18.3 - 25.6 ℃)|
|PH||6.0 - 7.5|
|GH||2 - 10|
|TDS||36 - 179|
Natural Habitat of the Rohani Barb
The Rohani Barb is endemic to Tamil Nadu State and Kanyakumari District in the Western Ghats in South India. These Barbs inhabit hill streams draining into the Arabian Sea. However, their habitats are likely to vary depending on location and time of year with two seasonal monsoons causing rises in water depth, turbidity and flow in these rivers.
Other Barbs of interest
In the home aquarium, the Rohani Barbs are easily-fed. However, a varied diet containing frequent meals of small live and frozen fare such as daphnia, bloodworm and artemia as well as high quality dried flakes and granules will support optimal colour and condition.
Breeding the Rohani Barb
Rohani Barbs are egg-scatterers with the right water conditions they will often spawn. In an established aquarium, you may see small numbers of fry starting to appear without intervention.
It would be better if you provide a separate tank that is dimly lit and the bottom covered with some mesh with big enough holes so that the eggs can drop through but small enough so the adults cannot reach them. Plastic grass matting can also be used and works well, as does a layer of glass marbles. Alternatively filling much of the tank with fine-leaved plants or spawning mops can again return decent results.
The water needs to be slightly acidic to neutral, and the temperature should be somewhat higher than usual. An air stone or an air-powered sponge filter should also be included to provide water movement and oxygenation.
Whenever the adults are well-conditioned, and the females appear full of eggs, you should then introduce one or two pairs into the tank, and spawning should begin the next morning.
Another way is to spawn the fish in a group with half a dozen individuals of each sex being an ideal number, although they may require a larger aquarium.
In either situation, the adults will most likely consume the eggs if given the opportunity, so it is advisable to remove them as promptly as you notice any.
The eggs should hatch within 24 to 48 hours, and the fry will become free swimming around 24 hours after that.
These Barbs require microscopic food for the first few days until they are big enough to accept foods such as artemia, microworm and nauplii.