Leopard Corydoras (Corydoras Trilineatus) Species Profile & Care Guide

The Leopard Corydoras is frequently confused with the Corydoras julii. You can tell them apart by the horizontal stripes. This species's stripes are thicker. There are very similar aquarium care requirements between the two species.

This fish is prevalent in the community aquarium because of their looks and personalities.

The Leopard Catfish is covered in overlaying scales referred to as plates or scutes. The body is a pale grey-silvery colour, with a narrow dark stripe that runs along the sideline from the gill covers to the end of the tail. On both sides of this stripe is a pale area, which are rows of spots.

The caudal fin is translucent with rows of dark spots that create stripes vertically through the tail. The dorsal fin is colourless with a large black spot on the upper portion, and the anal and adipose fins are also translucent with a row of spots running through them. The head is covered in dots that blend in a mottled pattern and sensitive barbels surround the mouth.

Like other catfish species, the dorsal, pectoral and adipose fins have a spiked fin ray that can be barred, making them difficult for a predator to swallow.

Natural Habitat of the Leopard Corydoras

The Leopard Corydoras originates from the central Amazon River basin, in Colombia, Brazil, Peru, Peruvian Amazon as well as the coastal rivers of Suriname. They inhabit soft to moderately hard acidic water in small rivers, pools, creeks and ponds in areas of flooded forests.

Other Corydoras of interest

Diet

The Leopard Catfish's primary source of diet should include high-quality sinking pellets or tablets. They will graze the bottom for leftover food from the surface and the mid-water dwellers, however, this will not be sufficient to keep them strong and healthy so supplement the dried food with live, freeze-dried and frozen foods such as daphnia, artemia and bloodworm.

Breeding the Leopard Corydoras

The Leopard Catfish is a relatively easy species to breed.

Ideally, a separate breeding tank will be required to hatch and grow the fry. The tank should be heavily planted, spawning mops would also work, and the substrate should be sand or smooth gravel. A bare bottom tank is also fitting. The water should be slightly acidic to neutral and soft.

Having a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corydoras is better, two males to every female are advised.

Condition the breeding group on live and frozen foods; this will encourage spawning.

When the females are noticeably full of eggs, perform a massive water change with colder water, and increase the flow and the oxygenation in the tank, repeat this daily until the fish spawn.

Spawning usually begins with enhanced activity, and the males will continuously pursue the females. When a female decides to acquire a male, the female will position her head against the mid-portion of the male, the male will then clasp the barbels of the female with his pectoral fins, and the female will form a basket with her pelvic fins, in which she will store up to four eggs.

It is thought that the sperm passes through the female's gills and are directed to the eggs being fertilised. Once the eggs have been fertilised, the female will find a good spot to attach her sticky eggs. This method will continue until she has laid around 100 to 150 eggs.

The parents will not care for nor protect the eggs once they have been laid. They will more than likely eat them so they must be separated from them if the fry is to be saved.

The eggs will usually hatch three to five days later and should then be fed freshly hatched micro-worms, rotifers or brine shrimp.

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