Indian Glass Fish (Parambassis ranga)
Indian Glass Fish have been relatively popular in the aquarium hobby for many years. They have a reputation for being fragile and difficult to keep. However, they are very tolerant of water parameters. Indian Glass Fish are peaceful and shy, and you should not house them with robust or aggressive species.
The choice of tankmates is also dictated by the sort of water you are keeping them in. You can keep them with Barbs, smaller Rainbowfish, Livebearers, Loaches, and many other small fish in freshwater conditions. In a brackish water aquarium, you can keep them with Bumblebee Gobies, Mollies and Chromides.
Indian Glass Fish are shoaling species and will not do well if you keep them alone or in pairs. It would be best if you kept them in groups of 6 or more individuals. Males can become somewhat territorial when spawning, but you will rarely see any physical damage to the fish.
Indian Glass fish have deep bodies and are laterally compressed. Their fins are long and rounded except for two separate, pointed dorsal fins. Their caudal fin is relatively long and forked, their back is arched, and the mouth is small and dorsally located. Their Forehead is slightly indented, and their eyes are rather large. These fish have a remarkably silvery transparent body with a pale amber to green iridescence to it, revealing its bones and internal organs.
Indian glassy fish have often been sold to hobbyists after being painted; this involves injecting coloured dye within the fish's transparent tissue to make them more appealing to hobbyists. These colours are usually fluorescent yellow, pink or green.
Unaccustomed fishkeepers are often fooled into believing such fish are natural or that the process causes no harm and is painless. However, this is not the case. These fish have suffered trauma, therefore, becoming susceptible to diseases such as fin rot, lymphocystis, velvet disease and ich infection.
What makes this worse is that artificial colouration is only temporary and often fades within a short time. Whilst dyed fish of this and other species are still available in numerous countries, fortunately, protracted campaigning has seen them banned from UK stores.
|Scientific Name||Parambassis ranga|
|Other Names||Indian Glassy Fish, Indian X-ray Fish Indian Glassy perch, Disco Fish, Painted Glass Fish|
|Aquarium Level||Bottom - Middle|
|Difficulty||Beginner - Intermediate|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||3 - 5 years|
|PH||6.5 - 7.5|
|GH||8 - 20|
|68 - 86℉|
20 - 30℃
Indian Glass Fish are endemic to India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Cambodia and Burma in South Asia and have recently been introduced to Japan. They can be found in both brackish and freshwater that is slow-moving or still. They inhabit confined bodies of water within estuaries, marshes, lakes, rivers, and streams that are heavily vegetated.
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What to feed the Indian Glass Fish
Indian Glass Fish are relatively unfussy and will accept most live, frozen and dried foods.
In the aquarium, these fish do better on a mix of live and frozen foods, such as bloodworm, cyclops, tubifex, brine shrimp, daphnia, Mysis shrimp and white mosquito larvae.
Good quality flake foods and micro pellets are also eagerly accepted, but you shouldn't feed them on this exclusively.
It would be more beneficial for your fish if you fed them in small amounts once or twice a day.
How to Sex the Indian Glass Fish
It is simple to distinguish male from female Indian Glass Fish. The males develop a dark blue edging on the anal and dorsal fins and have a slightly deeper yellow on the body than females. These differences are more visible when the fish are procreating, as the colours become more intense. The visible swim bladder has a pointed back edge in males.
How to Breed the Indian Glass Fish
It is relatively easy to breed Indian Glass Fish; however, raising the fry can be somewhat tricky.
You should place 6 to 8 adult fish in a heavily planted aquarium, and it would be better if the tank is located somewhere that it will receive direct sunlight in the morning. You should then condition the group with a high-quality, varied diet. During this time, maintain them at a temperature of around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and a neutral pH.
When the fish are in breeding condition, you will know when they are ready as the males colour intensifies and the female's stomachs will become rounder, perform a significant water change with slightly warmer water in the evening. The fish should spawn the next morning.
Each couple can deposit up to 200 eggs, and you will find these stuck to plant leaves and stems and amongst the vegetation. You can remove the adult fish at this point. The eggs are susceptible to fungus; therefore, it would be best to dose the entire tank with methylene blue sparingly to prevent this.
The eggs will usually hatch within 24 hours, and you will see them hanging from the plants. They become free swimming 3 to 4 days after that. They are pretty challenging to raise, as they do not actively seek food. Instead, they wait for bits to drift by them. Therefore, it is recommended that you feed them quite heavily with baby brine shrimp and create a slow current in the tank. The fry will require regular small water changes to keep the water conditions perfect.