Clown Barb (Barbodes everetti, Puntius everetti, Barbodes dunckeri)
Clown Barbs are active, hardy, and relatively peaceful medium-sized species that you should house in at least a 110-litre long aquarium. You should maintain them in shoals of 6 or more individuals. A group of these colourful barbs will make for a fascinating and attractive aquarium. In addition, any aggressive behaviour will usually be restricted as these fish concentrate on maintaining their hierarchical position within their group.
Clown Barbs are best kept by aquarists with some experience and maybe in a species only tank. Although this very tough fish is moderately easy to maintain, they require proper tank conditions and suitable tankmates.
These Barbs will usually do well in a community aquarium; however, they can nip fins and intimidate other fish with their energy. Tankmates must be similar in size and temperament, such as similarly-sized Barbs, Devarios, Rasboras or Barilius species. Medium to large-sized Nemacheilid and Balitorid Loaches also make excellent companions.
Clown barb prefer a well-planted aquarium; however, they will nibble on plants, so be sure to use hardy varieties such as Anubias sp and Java fern and only include those that can thrive in warmer water. Place them around the sides and back of the tank, leaving plenty of open space for swimming in the middle. Also, make sure you have a few hiding places made from wood and rocks.
The aquarium must receive frequent partial water changes as this species is sensitive to pollutants' build-up. The water should also be well-oxygenated for these fish to thrive, particularly if you plan on maintaining them at the higher end of their preferred temperature range.
Clown Barbs are torpedo-shaped. They have an orangy-brown colour on their upper body and an orangish-red on their sides with a yellow to whitish belly. Overall, this blend gives it a reddish-gold sheen.
Several dark, spotted band-type markings adorn their sides. They have red fins and sometimes a hint of red in the iris of their eye. All of these factors give this fish a rather clownish appearance. They also have a forked tail and only one dorsal fin. They lack an adipose fin.
|Scientific Name||Barbodes everetti, Puntius everetti, Barbodes dunckeri|
|Other Names||Everett's Barb|
|Aquarium Level||All Levels|
|Best kept as||Groups 6+|
|Lifespan||4 - 8 years|
|PH||6.5 - 7.0|
|GH||8 - 12|
|TDS||36 - 215|
|79 - 82℉|
26.1 - 27.8℃
Clown Barbs are native to Sumatra, Singapore, Malaysia and Borneo in Southeast Asia. They inhabit quiet forest streams, tributaries, and forest pools in the foothills.
You can also find them in forest floor puddles as shallow as 15 centimetres. These fish tend to show a preference for shallow areas of water. These habitats are usually heavily vegetated.
Other Barbs of interest
What to feed the Clown Barb
Clown Barbs will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and dried foods. However, to keep a good balance, you should provide your Barbs with regular meals of small live and frozen fares such as daphnia, bloodworm and artemia alongside High-quality dried flakes, pellets, and granules. This combination will ensure your fish stay healthy and bring out their best colours.
These Barbs will continuously eat if given a chance; therefore, aquarists should plan a reasonable amount of food. When offering your fish food several times a day, the rule of thumb is only to provide what they can consume in 3 minutes or less at each feeding. When delivering food just once a day, give what they can eat in around 5 minutes.
How to Sex the Clown Barb
It is relatively straightforward to distinguish male from female Clown Barbs. Mature males develop a more intense colour pattern and have more slender bodies than females. They also exhibit noticeable tubercules on their head when they are in breeding condition. In contrast, females are heavier bodied, grow a little larger than males and are less colourful.
How to Breed the Clown Barb
Like most small Cyprinids, these are an egg-scattering free spawner that exhibits no parental care.
When in good condition, they should often spawn, and in a well-established aquarium, small numbers of fry may start to appear without intervention. However, if you would like to maximise the yield, a more controlled approach will be required.
You can still condition the adult group together, but a separate breeding tank should also be set up and filled with seasoned water. You should dimly light the breeding tank and cover the bottom with a mesh with large enough holes so the eggs can fall through but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them.
Artificial grass matting can also be used and works just as well, so does a layer of glass marbles or pebbles. Alternatively, filling much of the tank with fine-leaved plants or spawning mops can also return satisfactory results.
The water's pH should be slightly acidic to neutral with a slightly higher temperature than the main aquarium. You should also include an air-powered sponge filter or an air stone to provide them with water movement and oxygenation.
Once the adults have been well-conditioned and the females appear gravid, you can then introduce one or two pairs into the breeding tank, and spawning should occur the following day.
Alternatively, you can spawn these fish in a group with half a dozen individuals of each sex; however, a larger aquarium may be necessary. In either situation, the adults will probably eat the eggs if given a chance; therefore, you must remove them as soon as you notice any.
The eggs should usually hatch within 24 to 48 hours then the fry will become free swimming around 24 hours after that. Therefore, it would be best if you fed the fry on an infusoria-grade food for the first few days until they become large enough to accept microworm, Artemia nauplii, or suchlike.